The first step to a successful restoration is to give the engine a thorough examination and inspection before beginning any disassembly. Check the general condition of the engine and note any damage to the parts like cracks, chips, poor welds and repairs. Most of us tend to get too quickly involved in the disassembly process and fail to take note of the current condition and engine details. It may be desirable to make a few photos of the "before" condition to compare to the final restored version. Remember, these units are very old and have been subjected to lots of abuse and fixes that would scare the famed and dedicated Maytag repairman. Noticing the broken or missing parts at this time can clarify the overall condition of the engine. It may be possible to determine if it is still in that original "barn fresh" condition or if it has been adjusted, modified, and poorly repaired by previous owners that were "less than expert" in their efforts. Most of the parts are cast iron and will crack or break easily. Take the time to closely examine the following areas ---

Serial Number – The serial number is found on the face of the outer rim of the aluminum flywheel. This is one of the first details to record. This one is 222663, so it dates the engine to about the first month of production. The serial numbers began with 219717 in September of 1927 and ended with 803840 in July of 1937.

Flywheel – Examine it closely for cracks in the fins and dents in the outer rim. The one pictured here is in good condition and only has the normal scratches and a few nicks on the edges. Flywheels could have areas that contain pits & deterioration due to corrosion. This inspection cover is the early type without the raised shoulders around the screw holes. The later type with raised shoulders was introduced in 1931.

Backing Plate – This one is the older style that does not have the raised bead on the outer edge. There are only two screws holes on each side of the coil, so it is correct for the age of the flywheel. When removal is later performed during the disassembly phase, remember to check the clamp that holds it securely to the main bearing housing. It is cast aluminum and if over tightened will snap off.

Tower Cap – These are often missing or have crush damage. They are made of sheet metal and are easily crushed or may have severe rust and pitting. This one appears to still have the original screws and the retaining strap for the spark plug wire. The old plug wire is missing but that would probably need to be replaced anyway.